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Thanks Tim.
I’ve had a further thought. If there were no problems with rot/damp/water ingress, would it be possible to use untreated timber for the joists and not experience any issues?
Maybe 6 isn’t strictly a contributing factor because if it was the case that all the other issues were resolved then the failings would not occur.
Is it the case that using treated timber is a secondary preventative measure which “kicks in” only when there is unplanned damp/water ingress in order to preserve the life of the timber until the water ingress/damp issues can be resolved?
Hi Tim
Thanks for the info about shale.
If you’re aware of the effect of water softening on shale, why discount it?
Also, I understand your comment about the possibility of water splashing back up the wall. However, I’m thinking in terms of writing a quiz question, the fact that the phrase “DPC above the break” has been used makes me think that the author isn’t expecting any rainwater to splash back above the DPC, so I’m still discounting this option.
Ben
Hi Tim
Thanks for your response. I’m still convinced on 1. I think over time the pointing could be washed out. Limestone pavements, such as Malham Cove and many other geographical features are formed my water erosion, but it does require a lot of time.
I’d be interested to hear any feedback on this. A neighbour has a mid-terrace with solid brick walls. They are having problems with damp penetrating from the exterior. The building company they are using are tackling it by putting a membrane on the interior walls to stop the damp entering the house. Surely this is not a good idea? Would it not be better to stop the damp entering the brick wall in the first place by improving the DPC? Otherwise the brickwork is still at risk of freeze-thaw damage during the winter.
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